SANANDAJ, Iran - Always full of energy, a journey to the vibrant Kurdish city of Sanandaj in western Iran - a cultural hub known for its lively streets and rich identity - is usually an inviting prospect. This time, however, amid the realities of war, we entered the city center and its well-known streets from an unfamiliar route - a choice that quickly became the focus of our reporting.
Because of the risk of US and Israeli airstrikes targeting military positions belonging to the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC) and the army on the eastern outskirts - locally known as the Sanandaj garrison - we changed course and entered from the northern road. Heavy checkpoints and dense military surveillance immediately underscored a sense of abnormality. Once inside the city, a contradictory picture emerged: normal traffic and daily movement in some neighborhoods, while elsewhere streets were closed following airstrikes or damage to government and military sites.
Sanandaj, the capital of Kurdistan province, had a population of more than 650,000 according to official Iranian statistics in 2020. Four weeks into the war, the city appears to have partially emerged from the initial shock, with a somewhat more stable - though fragile - atmosphere. In the early days of the conflict, explosions were heard daily from multiple locations. Now, as bombardment has eased, residents have begun to adapt and activity has gradually increased. Fuel prices remain higher than before the war but have fallen from their initial spike. Bread prices have followed a similar trajectory. Conversations with residents reveal deeper layers, reflecting the profound impact of the conflict on daily life.
As in other parts of Iran, the start of the war triggered widespread anxiety. Many residents rushed to buy essential food items - rice, oil, sugar, potatoes, flour - driving noticeable price increases. Panic buying continued until fuel supplies stabilized and bakeries resumed more normal operations. Households also began stockpiling items such as pasta and biscuits.
A large portion of Sanandaj’s population left for nearby villages in the first days, staying with relatives.
“In my opinion, about half the population left at the beginning," Shaho, a 45-year-old resident, told Rudaw. "The streets were visibly empty. Some tried to buy houses in villages at prices far above normal, while others rented for a month or two.”
He added: “I heard that in the village of Mianeh, one of the large villages on the Sanandaj–Mariwan road, even tents were being rented.”
Asked about his own plans, he said: “We have a garden near our village. From the first day we prepared a place there. If things worsen, we will have no choice but to go.”
This initial wave has since eased for several reasons. The influx placed heavy financial pressure on rural families as costs rose. Despite bringing supplies, many displaced families soon felt they were burdening relatives already struggling economically. At the same time, years of urban living and changing social norms made extended stays in villages - particularly for younger generations - difficult. As bombardment decreased, many returned home.
Nevertheless, rural homes remain important fallback options, as residents expect the conflict to continue. Gardens, farms, workshops, and areas far from government and military sites are widely viewed as safer temporary shelters.
Another pattern of displacement has also emerged: families returning from Tehran and other Iranian cities because of heavy bombardment.
Shorsh, originally from Sanandaj but living in Tehran for 17 years, said: “We all returned because of the deteriorating situation in Tehran. We used to visit Sanandaj for holidays and loved it, but this time it’s different. We are spread among relatives, and it feels uncomfortable to stay long in these difficult economic conditions. The worst part is not knowing how long this displacement and unemployment will last.”
Movement, markets, and daily life
Travel to other cities has declined sharply. Arman, who runs a shop at Sanandaj’s main terminal, said passenger traffic has dropped significantly since the war began, and drivers are complaining. Freight transport has also slowed due to strikes on Gulf port cities such as Bandar Abbas, leaving trucks stranded on roads near Sanandaj and Mariwan.
Today, streets appear somewhat more active. Residents attribute this partly to the approach of Nowruz and Ramadan. However, many say people are mainly buying Kurdish clothing for children rather than for themselves.
Shopkeepers agree that while there is movement, sales remain weak and most customers purchase only essentials.